Transforming Cotton Production in Mexico with GOTS Certification
Cotton in Mexico

Cotton has played an integral role in Mexico's history for thousands of years. The country boasts a rich diversity of cotton species, including wild relatives of the most commonly grown variety, known as ‘Upland Cotton’ (Gossypium Hirsutum). However, the introduction of genetically modified (GMO) cotton in the 1990s, along with environmental and health concerns, raised questions about the sustainability of cotton production. In 2019, Mexico banned the cultivation of GM cotton, providing a fresh opportunity to explore new approaches to cotton farming.

In Chihuahua, where GMO seeds dominated cotton production, a collaborative effort unfolded. A small local organisation, Materia Consumo Sostenible, partnered with GOTS to demonstrate that alternative cotton production methods were not just viable but essential. The challenge was to empower local farmers with the knowledge and resources needed to cultivate organic cotton while ensuring the environmental and economic sustainability of the industry.

The project's goals were ambitious. It aimed to enable farmers to grow organic cotton, embracing eco-friendly practices while supporting the local community. The pilot project spanned approximately 2.5 hectares and anticipated yields of 11 to 14 bales of organically certified seed cotton. The initiative also sought to establish robust supply chains, enabling farmers to access fair prices and cultivate long-lasting commercial relationships.
Navigating the challenges posed by the dominance of conventional cotton production in the region was no small feat. One significant hurdle was finding a ginning facility willing to process organic cotton. Additionally, adapting transportation and cropping equipment to the project's scale required creative solutions.

The results of this endeavour are nothing short of inspiring. Jesus Aguerre Chavez, GOTS Monitoring and Evaluation Specialist, summed it up: "This transcends mere cultivation; it represents a commitment to safeguard our environment, the health of our workers, and our cultural heritage. We are sowing the seeds of a more sustainable future".
The project demonstrates that organic cotton production can flourish, promoting both ecological and community well-being. As the government's restrictions on GM cotton cultivation create opportunities for transformation, the partnership between GOTS and local organisations represents a path to a more sustainable cotton industry in Mexico.

The knowledge gained in this project will be synthesised into an educational manual. This guide will empower others to embark on a similar path, contributing to the growth of organic cotton production and, ultimately, the creation of a more environmentally friendly and equitable cotton industry in Mexico.

Unlocking Opportunities for Small-Scale Excellence in Organic Textiles
In the world of organic textiles, obtaining GOTS certification is a prestigious achievement, and one that can open the door to new business opportunities. But for small operators, the complexity and cost of this certification can be a barrier.

Recognising that administrative complexities and financial burdens can impede these operators, GOTS introduced the ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme (CSCS) Pilot Project in 2022. This pioneering endeavour simplifies and streamlines the certification process for groups of small-scale facilities. Under CSCS, a supply chain with a minimum of eight and a maximum of 30 small-scale facilities, each with 20 or fewer workers, can achieve GOTS certification as a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment.

SANKEI MERIYASU, a 97-year-old Japanese artisan knitwear company with deep roots in tradition and community, recently achieved the first GOTS certification through the CSCS system. Project Coordinator Yuko Nishino praises the company’s commitment, saying, ‘SANKEI MERIYASU is a pivotal participant in the groundbreaking GOTS CSCS initiative, exemplifying pioneering dedication. This achievement resonates profoundly in Japan's textile industry, where cherished traditions, techniques, and community connections are of importance’.  

Ken Miki, Executive Director at SANKEI MERIYASU, shared his pride in SANKEI MERIYASU's trailblazing accomplishment, stating, ‘As the very first group to receive GOTS CSCS certification in the world, we will continue our efforts to make products that we are proud of, and communicate to the world about the products made by this local small group in Japan’.  

Shaping the Future
As the pilot project undergoes review and evaluation, GOTS will refine and validate the CSCS requirements, with the goal of implementing it fully for all markets. GOTS remains steadfast in its commitment to expanding the organic textile market, ensuring sustainability, and creating opportunities that empower operators of all sizes to participate.

Founded by new parents in 2004, Frugi, previously known as Cut4Cloth, has grown to be the UK's premier ethical and organic children's clothing brand. With a presence in over 550 retailers across 30 countries, the company is dedicated to showcasing that superior design, strong ethics, and passionate individuals can be transformative. Its journey involves the use of organic cotton from trusted farmers, recycled plastic bottles for outerwear, and a relentless pursuit of innovation, all aimed at leaving a positive mark on the world.

Promoting Inclusion and Equality

Creating Opportunities for Disadvantaged Individuals
In partnership with the UK-based charity Leonard Cheshire, GOTS has played a vital role in a transformative project aimed at fostering social inclusion and economic opportunities in the Ready Made Garment (RMG) sector in Tiruppur, Tamil Nadu, India.

According to the World Bank, over one billion people, approximately 15 percent of the global population, experience some form of disability. Persons with disabilities are more likely to face challenges in education, healthcare, employment, and poverty rates, especially in developing countries. Recognising the importance of social inclusion, GOTS, and Leonard Cheshire collaborated with GIZ, IVN, and Indian NGO Love and Acceptance, to undertake a project that would provide training and opportunities to ultimately integrate persons with disabilities into the RMG sector.

The project was launched in March 2022, with the aim of reducing barriers such as inaccessible workplaces, limited training, and a lack of awareness among employers. The objectives included sensitising employers, professionals, and organisations of persons with disabilities (OPDs), adapting training institutions' curricula to ensure accessibility, and fostering collaboration between stakeholders.

To achieve its goals, the project facilitated training and support for persons with disabilities. It worked closely with training institutions to adapt their curricula to provide relevant skills for the RMG sector. Consultative workshops and sessions on accessibility, workplace adaptations, safeguarding, and occupational health were conducted to educate and empower stakeholders. The project also linked with GOTS certified entities, successfully involving them in the effort.

GOTS was actively engaged from the project's inception, reaching out to certified entities in the Tiruppur region. The response from these entities was overwhelmingly positive, with several of them participating in the project. Their commitment and collaboration played a vital role in driving the initiative's success.

Thanks to the collective efforts of all involved, the project witnessed tremendous success. This project wasn't just about generating jobs; it was about creating opportunities, promoting inclusivity, and upholding the principles of sustainability.
Ganesh Kasekar, GOTS Representative in South Asia, shares his perspective: ‘This undertaking exemplifies the power of collaboration and the positive impact working together can have on our industry. It's a testament to the GOTS community's commitment to making a difference in people's lives and championing equality’.